Teaching Skin to Heal Itself: Why SkinPen Microneedling Works So Well

You’ve heard of microneedling, but have you heard of SkinPen? It is a minimally invasive, in-office treatment designed to stimulate the skin’s natural healing process and improve overall tone and texture—with little downtime. SkinPen creates thousands of controlled micro-injuries in the skin, triggering the body’s wound-healing response to support collagen and elastin production. The result is gradual, natural-looking skin renewal that can help soften fine lines, refine the appearance of pores, smooth acne scars, and improve uneven texture over time. If you are considering microneedling and want a clearer understanding of what sets SkinPen apart, you’ll want to read on.

SkinPen works by creating controlled micro-channels in the skin using fine, sterile needles, essentially “teaching” the skin to repair itself from within. These micro-injuries trigger the body’s natural wound-healing response, increasing collagen and elastin production over time. As the skin rebuilds, texture becomes smoother, tone more even, and overall firmness improves. During the treatment, your provider can adjust the needle depth and speed to suit different areas and concerns, using gentler settings for more delicate skin and deeper passes where issues like acne scarring are more stubborn.

SkinPen is the first microneedling device brand to achieve FDA clearance. It is also widely regarded as a more sterile, safer option because it uses single-use needle cartridges that are discarded after each treatment. Traditional microneedling, on the other hand, often relies on derma rollers, which can carry a higher risk of cross-contamination if not properly handled. Compared to regular microneedling, SkinPen is also more precise because it has multiple settings that allow providers to control needle depth. Lastly, SkinPen can penetrate more deeply, which may make it a better option for concerns like acne scarring.

Traditional microneedling typically uses a dermaroller, which is a handheld tool covered in small needles that is rolled across the skin to create micro-injuries and stimulate collagen. While dermarollers and SkinPen are both forms of microneedling, there are important differences in safety and precision. AEDIT Founder and board-certified facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon, Dr. Kennedy explains, “While both dermarollers and SkinPen treatments stimulate collagen through controlled micro-injury, they differ in depth precision. Dermarollers are generally best suited for more superficial concerns, such as mild texture irregularities or product penetration. SkinPen, as a medical-grade microneedling device, allows for greater depth control and consistency, making it more effective for treating deeper concerns like acne scarring, fine lines, and more significant collagen remodeling.”

Microneedling, including SkinPen, is a type of collagen induction therapy. It works by creating controlled micro-injuries in the skin, which trigger the body’s natural wound-healing response. As the skin repairs itself, it produces new collagen and elastin, the structural proteins that help keep skin firm, smooth, and resilient. Over time, this collagen-building process can improve the look of fine lines, uneven texture, enlarged pores, and acne scarring. Rather than relying on heat or chemicals, collagen induction therapy supports gradual, natural-looking skin renewal by encouraging the skin to regenerate from within.

While SkinPen can help with a wide range of common skin concerns, it is most often used to soften fine lines and wrinkles, minimize the appearance of enlarged pores, and smooth uneven skin. It is also commonly used to address acne scarring, since its controlled depth and precision allow providers to safely treat deeper layers of the skin over time.

While SkinPen can help tighten the skin, it is more of a secondary benefit. The treatment is primarily used to stimulate collagen for smoother texture, softer lines, and improved scarring. If your main goal is noticeable lifting or tightening, you are typically better off with treatments designed specifically for that purpose, such as radiofrequency skin tightening or ultrasound-based skin tightening.

Absolutely! Reducing the appearance of acne scars is one of the most common reasons people choose the treatment. By creating controlled micro-injuries, SkinPen stimulates collagen production in the deeper layers of the skin, which can help remodel scar tissue over time. With a series of treatments, many patients see smoother texture and a softening of indented, atrophic acne scars. Results are gradual and typically improve over the months following each session, since collagen remodeling takes time.

The collagen stimulation treatment can help with certain types of hyperpigmentation, especially post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation left behind after acne or irritation. Melasma, on the other hand, is more complicated. Since melasma is highly reactive and can be triggered by inflammation, microneedling is not always the best first-line option and, in some cases, can worsen it if the skin becomes irritated.

If hyperpigmentation is your main concern, it is best to work with an experienced provider who can confirm the type of discoloration and build a plan that often includes targeted topical pigment inhibitors and strict daily sunscreen, sometimes alongside carefully timed in-office treatments.

How long SkinPen results last depends on the concern you are treating. For acne scarring, improvements can be long-lasting because the treatment helps remodel scar tissue and build new collagen, so results tend to hold once you have completed a series. For ongoing concerns like fine lines, texture, and mild laxity, results are more maintenance-based since natural aging and sun exposure continue to affect the skin over time. In those cases, some people may want occasional touch-up treatments.

SkinPen is typically very tolerable, but there is some discomfort, which is why most providers apply a topical numbing cream ahead of the treatment. Many describe the sensation as light scratching or pressure, with higher sensitivity in areas like the forehead, upper lip, and around the nose. The intensity can also vary depending on how deep the treatment needs to be for your concerns. Afterward, the skin usually feels warm and tight, similar to a mild sunburn, for the rest of the day.

Right after SkinPen, the skin is usually red and feels warm, similar to a moderate sunburn. There could also be mild swelling, especially around the eyes, and in some cases tiny pinprick dots where the needles contacted the skin. Over the next one to two days, the redness usually fades to a pink flush. Then skin often feels dry and tight, with light flaking for a few days as it heals. By the end of the week, most people look back to normal, and many notice a smoother, brighter look once the surface settles.

Most providers recommend waiting at least 24 hours before wearing makeup after a SkinPen treatment. This gives the micro-channels time to close and helps reduce the risk of irritation or introducing bacteria while the skin is still vulnerable. If you are still noticeably red or sensitive the next day, it can be worth waiting closer to 48 hours. When you do apply makeup, keep it simple, use clean brushes or sponges, and choose gentle, non-irritating formulas.

The number of SkinPen sessions needed largely depends on the individual’s goals and concerns. For general texture, tone, and early signs of aging, many people start with a series of three treatments spaced about four to six weeks apart, followed by occasional maintenance to support ongoing collagen production. For deeper concerns like acne scarring, sometimes six or more sessions are needed, but maintenance is not always necessary once results are achieved. In those cases, additional treatments are typically only done if someone wants further improvement.

Yes, SkinPen is generally considered safe for all skin tones and is often recommended for deeper skin tones. Dr. Kennedy cautions, “Microneedling can be an effective alternative to heat-based laser treatments, particularly for patients who may not be ideal candidates for energy-based devices. That said, microneedling is not without risk—post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation can occur, especially in deeper skin tones, if the treatment is not performed appropriately. This makes provider experience critical. Patients should seek practitioners who are comfortable treating a wide range of skin tones and who understand depth control, technique, and post-procedure care. Strict aftercare, including diligent sun protection, is essential to minimize complications and optimize results.”

Microneedling is not right for everyone. Those with active skin infections, open wounds, or inflammatory skin conditions, like eczema or psoriasis, should wait until the skin has healed. Additionally, those with active acne breakouts should hold off since microneedling can spread bacteria and worsen inflammation. “Patients with conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, or acne-prone skin can still be candidates for microneedling, but timing is critical. Treatments should only be performed when the skin is calm and clear, as microneedling over active inflammation or breakouts can increase the risk of irritation, infection, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” says Dr. Kennedy.

Lastly, those who are pregnant, have a poor wound healing response, or have certain medical conditions may be candidates but should get medical clearance first.

Choosing between SkinPen and RF microneedling depends on your primary skin concerns and goals. SkinPen is best suited for improving skin quality, refining pores, and softening acne scars, without the use of heat; it is considered more conservative with less downtime. RF microneedling, on the other hand, combines microneedling with radiofrequency energy to heat deeper layers of the skin, which can lead to more noticeable tightening and lifting. If texture and scarring are your main concerns, SkinPen is often the better choice. If skin laxity and firmness are higher priorities, RF microneedling is most likely a better option.

SkinPen and Morpheus8 both stimulate collagen through microneedling, but Morpheus8 adds radiofrequency (RF) energy to heat the deeper layers of skin. Because of that, Morpheus8 is often the better choice if your main goal is noticeable tightening, lifting, or contouring. Neither is universally better; the right option depends on whether your priority is tightening or texture-focused.

SkinPen and laser resurfacing are both used to improve skin texture and tone, but they work very differently. While SkinPen uses needles and is often chosen for overall texture improvement, laser resurfacing uses concentrated light energy to resurface the skin and stimulate renewal. In general, laser treatments can deliver more dramatic results for concerns like deeper wrinkles, pronounced sun damage, and significant discoloration, but they also tend to come with more downtime and a higher risk of irritation or pigment changes. SkinPen is typically the more conservative option, while laser resurfacing can be a better fit for patients who want stronger correction and are comfortable with a longer recovery. Dr. Kennedy shares, “I often recommend SkinPen for patients who want noticeable improvement with minimal downtime, particularly when the goal is overall texture refinement. For patients seeking more aggressive correction—such as deeper wrinkles or more advanced sun damage—and who are able to accommodate a longer recovery period, laser resurfacing is typically the better option.”